Sunburn in winter. How long has it been? It had to have been the sun that reddened our faces, because there was absolutely no wind on the vast, empty beach at St. Peter-Ording, the roiling North Sea calmed to the level stillness of a morning lake. A few strollers, a couple of disappointed kite-surfers, nothing much more. A year ago today we were stepping over three-foot snowdrifts on the Baltic after a 24-hour blizzard cut us off from the rest of Germany for a while. What a difference.